TND Dragons

Quality Bearded Dragons

                     Enclosure's

Baby bearded dragons can be kept in 20 gallon long tanks. Once your bearded dragon reaches 10-12 inches it is time for a bigger enclosure. Never house 2 bearded dragons together except to breed and then separate them. Keeping 2 bearded dragons together can lead to undue stress and possible injuries to one or both dragons.  The absolute minimum I recommend is a 40 gallon breeder. That is 36 inches long 18 inches deep and 17 inches high. Ideal size in my opinion is 48 inches long and 24 inches deep. Here is an example of my stackable cages that are 48 inches long x 24 inches deep.

 

                        Lighting and Heating

Bearded Dragons require a temperature gradient in their enclosures because they cannot regulate their body temperature by themselves. The hot side of the cage should be kept between 105-115 degrees in the basking spot. This will aid the bearded dragon in digesting its food. The cool side should be kept around 75-85 degrees. The night time temperature should never drop below 65 degrees, If it does you will then want to use a night bulb or a ceramic heating element. Your temperatures should never be left to guess work. Always use a digital probe thermometer or an infrared temperature gun. This will help reduce the margin for error greatly. Do not depend on stick-on or strip thermometers they are not very accurate. All bearded dragons require UVA/UVB lighting. This helps them synthesize vitamin D3 which helps in metabolizing calcium properly. Your bearded dragon should be able to get within 8 inches of your UVA/UVB source. Without UVA/UVB lighting your bearded dragon can develop metabolic bone disease. You can use a Reptisun 10.0 florescent bulb, but it must be replaced every 6 months regardless if the light is still working. This is because the UVB component drops by 50% after 6 months. You may also use mercury vapor bulbs, they provide heat as well as UVA/UVB. I use blue day bulbs for heat and florescent bulbs for my UVA/UVB lighting. All your bulbs can be found online at prices lower than your local pet store.

                              Substrates

This is probably one of the most debated topics among bearded dragon keepers. Some people use sand some do not, and both will argue the virtues for all they are worth. Now with that being said I do not use sand in my enclosures for 2 reasons. The 1st reason is when I first got into bearded dragons I used sand. Until someone on the forum mentioned to me that it was like living is a litter box for my dragons. No matter how fast you clean out the poo from a sand filled enclosure you cannot get it all nor get all the liquid out, therefore over time you will have an odor and bacteria growth. The 2nd reason being that dragons will ingest sand when they eat or just by licking things in the cage. This could cause your dragon to get impacted ( a serious condition that can paralyze or even kill your dragon.)  If you want a sand substrate DO NOT use the sand products from the pet store use ONLY fine sifted play sand that can be purchased cheaply at your local home improvement store. Acceptable forms of substrate consist of no adhesive shelf liner, ( this is what I use ) Textured ceramic tile is a favorite of many breeders, Reptile carpet, and paper towels. DO NOT use reptile bark, calci sand,repti sand, desert blend, corn cob, walnut shells, or any cedar or pine products.

                        Enclosure Cleaning

Remove feces everyday. Clean with a mild soapy water. Then sanitize with Nolvasan or a diluted bleach solution of 10% bleach to 90% water. I clean and sanitize all furniture, liner and enclosure weekly. Food and water bowls are cleaned daily. When it comes to using rocks or logs from the wild you must clean and sanitize these as well. Soak the items in a bleach solution for 30 minutes, then bake the rocks and wood at 250 degrees in your oven till nice and dry. This will kill off anything the bleach soak missed.

                        Feeding and Water

Another debated topic is the use of a water dish. I recommend using one. Some of my dragons love sitting in it between soakings. Some drink from the bowl when they are thirsty.  Leafy greens must be offered daily. These include collards, mustard, turnip, escarole, endive, and dandelion greens. Grated vegetables like winter squashes, parsnips, carrots,  can be added to the salad.

Insects should be offered to babies 2 to 3 times a day. Allowing them to eat as many as they can in a 10 minute period. Make sure the insects are no bigger than the space between their eyes. Serious harm can be caused by hatchlings eating insects that are to big. Crickets and roaches tend to be the staple of choice for most bearded dragon owners. Adults tend to eat less insects as they get older and more greens. A healthy adult will eat 50-75% greens to 25-50% insects. Dust your insects with calcium powder just before feeding them to your bearded dragon. Use a multivitamin supplement a couple times a week as well. I feed mine in the AM to make sure they have time to bask and digest their food. NEVER FEED YOUR DRAGON FIRE FLIES. They are toxic to your dragon and will cause death. Not quite as toxic but almost as bad are lady bugs.

                        General Information

Once you have your bearded dragon home find yourself a reptile vet, and it couldn't hurt to get a fecal sample tested for parasites. Bearded dragons can get them from the insects they eat. Regular bathing will keep your bearded dragon hydrated, clean, and regular. Make sure the bath water is warm to the touch and never higher than the dragons shoulders. Be prepared most bearded dragons will poop in a warm bath.

Some behaviors you may see are arm waving, this is a sign of submission that both male and female dragons will do. Head bobbing in males means I am king, a slow bob back will mean submission. Females will slow bob or bow back, this sometimes looks like a slow push up. Beard displaying is done by booth male and female it is a sign of aggression or showing off. Male beards tend to be larger and get much blacker. Sometimes you will see your dragon dig. Dragons will dig to find a place to sleep, or make a burrow to lay eggs. They may also try to dig a hole to burmate in which is a time of slower activity similar to hibernation.

                                In closing

Bearded dragons are one of the best reptile pets. They do not get overly large. They live a good amount of time with an average of 8 to 10 years if properly cared for. Bearded dragons are smart, friendly, and personable. Most are very tame and don't mind being handled, they can be a fun and easy addition to the family.

With the purchase of any bearded dragon you are joining a community of owners who like to share their thoughts and ideas. I do not claim to know everything there is to know about bearded dragons. I have learned over the years that  you are always teaching, always learning, so what I don't know I can find out from this wonderful community of people that I have met over the years. Welcome to the bearded dragon community, and enjoy your new dragon.

Recent Photos

  

What's Happening Now!!

GECKOS ARE HERE!!!!!!!

AND NOW AVAILABLE!!!!!!!!


2 New Female Breeders under the Breeders Section.


EVEN IF YOU SEE ONLY 1 OR 2 DRAGONS LISTED ON THE SITE, FEEL FREE TO CALL OR EMAIL US.

I HAVE SEVERAL BABYS THAT ARE JUST NOT LISTED WHILE GETTING READY FOR SHOWS!


Rhonda is now retired and going to get a much needed rest.


2010 is going to be a big year!

We will be at several shows through out the year!!

The Greater Harrisburg Reptile Expo in Carlise Pa

The Hamburg Reptile Show in Hamburg Pa

East Coast Reptile Super Expos  in Reading Pa

Repticon in Timonium Md.  May 2010

M.A.R.S. In Timonium Md.  Sept. 2010??


Upcoming Events 2010

Fri March 19th, Sat March 20th and Sun March 21st.

East Coast Reptile Super Expos!  Reading Pa!

This show will be taking place at the same time as the Reading Pet Expo

2 shows for the price of 1!!!!


Sat April 24th The Hamburg Reptile Show!!



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